Welcome to Marfa
*If you've been to Marfa (and you know everything) and you want to skip ahead to the itinerary, click here. Or maybe it’s your first rodeo (or second, who’s counting?), either way, keep reading for a crash course in Marfa magic.
* Last bit of homework, RSVP by Feb. 20th. Oh, and make sure you book a place sooner, than later. March in Marfa is busier than the Prada store on selfie Sunday or Anton Chigurh’s coin on a windy day.
Marfa is where the coffee is strong, the stars outshine your phone screen, and the art just might make you rethink your life decisions (in the best possible way).
Nestled in the vast expanse of West Texas, Marfa is a hidden gem that captures the hearts of travelers looking to escape the ordinary. This enchanting town is a haven of creativity, art, food, and culture, offering a truly one-of-a-kind experience to all who visit. With its striking desert landscapes, captivating art scene, and a tranquility that wraps around you like a warm desert breeze, Marfa beckons with open arms (and maybe a raised eyebrow) to those ready to embrace its distinctive charm.
Here, time seems to slow down, possibly because the clocks are still deciding whether they’re on mountain or central time. The unhurried pace invites you to savor every moment: to wander streets lined with minimalist architecture, quirky boutiques, and dirt alleys that lead… somewhere interesting (probably). You’ll find a calm that only exists where the endless desert horizon meets the boundless sky and where Wi-Fi signals are more mythical than reliable.
Below are some things to do, places to eat, and a few of my personal favorites to help you make the most of your time here, celebrating my 50th.
⭐ Stargazing & Marfa Lights
It’s possible the sky goes full blackout mode during your stay. Translation: you’ll absolutely see the Milky Way with your own eyes, no telescope, no filter, no “enhance” button needed. This is also prime time for night photography if you’re the type who likes to point expensive glass at the heavens.
Marfa is part of a Dark Skies Initiative, so we keep the lights low so the stars can shine bright.
If you want to really geek out, head 35 minutes north to the McDonald Observatory, home to one of the top 10 largest telescopes in the world. They host Star Parties, where you’ll drive up to 6,400 feet (practically Everest by Texas standards) and hang out under a dazzling canopy of stars. The area glows with red light (think: moody nightclub for astronomers), and UT astronomers help you decode what you’re seeing.
McDonald Observatory Evening Programs — tickets are cheap and worth it.
And don’t miss the famous Marfa Lights viewing area, about 7 miles outside town. Are they ghosts? Aliens? Weird atmospheric phenomena? Yes.
🍳 Food & Drink
Marfa has no shortage of good food; the challenge is that hours tend to shift with the desert winds. Always check Instagram or call before heading out.
Some spots have even earned James Beard Award nominations, and depending on the season, you might stumble across pop-up kitchens that appear like culinary mirages.
Here’s my shortlist:
Bordo — Italian-inspired, perfect for lunch. You haven't had a sandwich like this before.
Marfa Burrito — Anthony Bourdain-approved breakfast/lunch burritos.
Margaret’s — A relaxed, lovely dinner spot. Great place to people watch.
Water Stop — Cozy dinner with creative comfort food.
Cochineal — Upscale, locally sourced dinner experience. Reservations are recommended.
The Sentinel — Breakfast, lunch, and coffee with a side of charm.
Planet Marfa — Beer garden vibes with casual bites.
Marfa Spirit Co. — House-distilled spirits and great cocktails.
Coyote Coffee — Exceptional coffee and a laid-back vibe.
As Anthony Bourdain put it after arriving in Marfa:
“I drove three hours through ghost towns and dead gas stations and nothing but nothing, you know. Suddenly, I arrived in Marfa. It’s like, ‘Would you like some bruschetta, some salumi, some $900 ponchos?’ What’s going on?”
🎨 Art & Pop Culture
Marfa punches way above its weight in art and culture. There are about 30 galleries, with everything from Warhol paintings to sprawling outdoor installations like Prada Marfa and Donald Judd’s works at The Chinati Foundation(which is a must-see if you pick just one).
It’s said that there’s $300–500 million worth of art tucked into this little desert town — not counting all the ironic hats and $900 ponchos.
Marfa has also been a star in Hollywood films like No Country For Old Men, There Will Be Blood, and Giant (where James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor lived here during filming).
🐴 Other Adventures
If you’re feeling adventurous:
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Already planning to hit Big Bend? Good choice — it’s stunning.
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If you have your passport, cross into Mexico at the Boquillas Crossing: row across the Rio Grande, ride a donkey into town, and enjoy tacos that’ll ruin you for all other tacos.
If you have questions, need help choosing between “moody stargazing party” or “$900 poncho shopping,” or just want more suggestions, just holler.
Welcome to Marfa, soak it in, enjoy every minute, and let’s party!
The Itinerary
Friday March 20th
Afternoon/Evening • Marfa → Valentine
As the date gets closer, we’ll share the exact arrival time at the legendary Valentine Bar in Valentine, Texas. More about the bar below, but first, let’s talk dinner.
Before the evening’s main event, you’ll have time to explore Marfa’s food scene and grab an early supper in town. This is your chance to experience some of Marfa’s culinary charm, Friday evening is for roaming and tasting.
On Saturday, though? You’re all mine. Dinner that night is part of the planned festivities, so no need to make plans then.
After dinner on Friday, we’ll kick things off at the legendary Valentine Bar in Valentine, Texas. All that being said, you still might be able to score a taco at the bar on Friday.
This just might be one of the coolest dive bars in all of Texas, no exaggeration. Both The New York Times and Bon Appétit recently stopped by and fell hard for its quirky charm.
Fun fact, you’ll find Marfa hipsters, local cattle ranchers, and rocket engineers from Blue Origin all circling up here. It’s that kind of place.
Come ready for a surprise or two or three, because in Valentine, you never quite know what the night will bring.
Hot tip: bring some one-dollar bills, Miss Taylor is back, and she’s ready to work the crowd. No, not a dancer, better. She’s feathered, fabulous, and central to a time-honored Marfa spectacle we promise you won’t forget.
Address: 450 California Ave, Valentine, TX 79854
Fun fact, Valentine is about 25 miles from Mexico as a crow flies.
Before I forget, if your taste buds are wandering past beer and mimosas, swing by Cactus Liquors on your way outta town. Think of it as Marfa’s unofficial museum of bottles, where the exhibits go home with you.
Saturday March 21st
Mid-afternoon into evening • Marfa
Let’s meet at our place: 1201 W Berlin St. in Marfa. You’ll probably have driven by already and didn’t even know it, we’re the white house with the sharp-looking cedar and cattle panel fence, just across from Bordo. The fence does most of the talking.
Dinner gets going around 6pm, but hey, it’s Marfa, so no need to watch the clock too closely. The team from Bordo will be serving up their Spaghetti Western dinner, and no, it's neither spaghetti nor a Spaghetti Western movie. It's the kind of food you’ll still be thinking about long after you’ve left the desert.
Let’s plan on hanging out and talking for hours under the desert stars, because where else can you properly unpack the past, the future, and whether time even exists out here? We’ve got a few surprises planned for Saturday (no spoilers—this is Marfa, after all, and ambiguity is part of the experience). And who knows? Maybe we’ll wander to another spot too… the kind of place Anthony Bourdain might have ended up, half-hidden, and totally unassuming.